THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR / THE ORIGIN STORY

THE MAKING
OF BODYAMR

Amr Ali, the British-born Omani designer and founder of BODYAMR, is described on Wikipedia as “the first internationally successful British Arab fashion designer,” citing Haute Muse’s “Shape Shifter” feature (August 2011, pp. 66–69). His collections brought a Gulf Arab point of view to London Fashion Week, with designer coverage in British Vogue and Vogue Italia.

AMR ALI — LONDON, 2000–2015

An unexpected dinner-party conversation. A leap from the drawing room to the runway. The designer who made a name — and then made it international.

The story of BODYAMR is the story of a man who refused to keep the disciplines of art, interiors and fashion in separate rooms.

01 / 08

THE MAKING OF BODYAMR

It began, improbably enough, not with a dress but with a dinner invitation. In London, Amr Ali was working in the celebrated interiors world of Nicholas “Nicky” Haslam. Trained to think in terms of proportion, atmosphere and detail, the London-born Omani designer was learning how to build a room that could tell a story. Before long, he was imagining what would happen if the person entering the room became the story instead.

02 / 08

A NAME AT THE DINNER TABLE

Ali recalls a dinner at Charles Spencer’s, where Annie Lennox was a fellow guest. As the conversation turned to his ambition to create something of his own, Lennox suggested a name with a double meaning: BODYAMR — a witty play on his name and on “body armour.” A private exchange offered the beginnings of a public identity. What started as an idea over dinner would eventually become a name associated with the runway, the red carpet and a certain kind of unapologetic glamour.

03 / 08

THE LONDON GAMBLE

Haslam — Nicky to Ali — had encouraged his path in interior design and opened the doors to London's extraordinary creative circle. But Ali was drawn beyond the drawing room. With early investment from Timothy Landon and Kenneth Oman, as Ali recounts, he began developing BODYAMR in London. He did not arrive through the conventional hierarchy of fashion houses. His route was through interiors, photography, art, late-night conversation and a stubborn belief that a designer could work across them all. The first pieces were experimental. The ambition was not.

04 / 08

FROM LES TROIS GARÇONS TO FASHION WEEK

An early salon presentation at Les Trois Garçons — an establishment as theatrical as it was fashionable — offered an appropriately unconventional beginning. The label soon moved onto the London Fashion Week stage. Draped silhouettes, fluid fabrics and a language of sensual restraint set BODYAMR apart. Then came a defining endorsement: the British Fashion Council selected a BODYAMR creation for a London Fashion Week advertising campaign. The young designer's work was not merely appearing during fashion week; it was helping to represent it to the wider world.

05 / 08

ART AS A SECOND LANGUAGE

BODYAMR was never meant to exist in isolation from other art forms. Christian Louboutin collaborated on footwear for the label, bringing his unmistakable sensibility to Ali's collections. For the Spring/Summer 2007 collection, Ali worked with the legacy of Iranian artist Mahmoud Farshchian, who granted permission for his painting The Fifth Day of Creation to appear on garments. It was more than decorative borrowing. Persian painting, childhood memory, poetry and the movement of the female figure entered the same frame. Fashion became a way to carry a cultural image across borders.

06 / 08

THE WORLD BECOMES A STOCKIST

The international retail network told its own story: Harrods and Selfridges in London; Colette in Paris; Harvey Nichols in Dubai; and American luxury names including Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. A 2008 exclusive capsule for Harrods demonstrated that the label's appeal rested as much on individuality and limited production as on the pageantry of its shows. In an industry often obsessed with ubiquity, BODYAMR cultivated an almost private intimacy with its customers.

07 / 08

THE CULT OF BODYAMR

Kylie Minogue, Florence Welch, Katy Perry, Cheryl Cole, Amanda Seyfried, Milla Jovovich and Anjelica Huston were among the figures who brought BODYAMR into the public eye. Some appeared on stages, some on red carpets, some in the fashion pages. They had something in common: presence. British Vogue charted the growing constellation of women wearing the label. A BODYAMR dress was not intended to make its wearer disappear into the clothes. It offered her a stage.

08 / 08

A WORLD WITHIN A WORLD

What Ali created in London was never simply a label of dresses. It was a proposition about identity: that a British-Omani voice could speak the language of international luxury without imitating it; that Arab and Persian references could be contemporary, assured and entirely their own; and that fashion could belong as much to art direction as to tailoring. Seen in retrospect, the story comes full circle. Ali never truly abandoned interiors. He simply expanded the room until it became a runway — and invited the world inside.

A fashion house is more than its clothes.THE BODYAMR ARCHIVE · LONDON